Covered shank shoe



Oct. 8, 1935. c. MILLER COVERED SHANK SHOE Filed April 16, 1954 2Sheets-Sheet l INVENTQR Y fig B Qa/wZw ATTORNEY Oct. 8, 1935.

c. MILLER COVERED SHANK SHOE Filed April 16, 1954 2 SheetS -Sheet 2INVENTOR ATTORNEY Patented Oct. 8, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFIQE 10Claims.

This invention relates to the shoe art and deals more specifically withladies shoes having a shank portion of minimum width, whereby to permitthe application of an ornamental design to the upper, and to permit saiddesign to be carried out over the shank portion, without materialinterruption at the shank.

And it is an object of this to provide a shoe and method of making thesame, in which the upper material is not interrupted at the shank by theusual shank-forming part of the outsole; but rather in which the uppermaterial completely encompasses the shank.

A further object of this invention is to provide a shoe having uppermaterial at the shank part, without reducing the strength, comfort, andwearing properties of the shoe.

These and other objects of the invention will be apparent to thoseskilled in the art, from the following description taken in connectionwith the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure l is a perspective view of a shoe embodying the presentinvention.

Figure 2 is a perspective View of ashoe constructed in accordance withthe present, showing the same partially completed prior to the turningoperation.

Figure 3 is a section taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. l.

Figure 4 is a detail View of a sole prepared for use in the shoe of theforegoing figures.

Figure 5 is a transverse section of the sole at the shank portionshowing the application of the cover to the shank'in a sole which is notskeletonized at the shank.

Figure 6 is a perspective view of a modification.

Figure 7 is a section taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 6.

Figure 8 is a detail view of a sole used in the shoe of Fig. 6 and Fig.7.

' Referring in detail to Figs. 1-4 the present invention will bedescribed as applied to a shoe made under the turn process.

A sole is first prepared in the usual way for the turn process with achannel I!) in the flesh side to receive the stitches II. A flap I2 issplit from the grain side of the sole as far forward as the ball line toprovide the usual heel breast covering. I now cover the face of the flapl2, which contacts with the face l3 of the sole from which the flap issplit, with a suitable cement such as one of the commercially availablepyroxiline cements. This cemented surface is rendered tacky by theapplication of a solvent. I now cut away the shank portion IA of theflap [2,

leaving the heel breast cover I5, and also leaving the tip l6 integralwith the sole. After the removal of I 4 the piece I5 is set in place onthe sole from which it was cut, and is held in place there temporarilyby the aforementioned cement. 5 A piece of the upper material I! havinga predetermined design l8 applied thereto is now placed over the shankportion |3a of the face l3 of the sole, and is held in place thereon bya suitable cement. The piece I1 is of sufficient size to ex- 19 tendunder the cover l5 and the tip it. As seen in Fig. 5 the cover piece I1is placed over the shank portion I 3a of the sole and the edges of llare laid over onto the lip Ella of the channel l0, so that when theupper is sewed the same 10 stitches hold both the upper and the piece H.

,The foregoing description of the preparation of the sole deals with theusual sole used in the turn shoe process. In accordance with myinvention, I further prepare the outsole so that 29 the same is not onlyprovided with a cover piece II; but also I reduce the width of theportion I3a (Fig. 4) so that in the finished shoe, 2. very narrow stripconnects the forward portion of the sole with the heel portion. It willbe under- 25 stood, of course, that the portion tau, is reduced in widthprior to the application of the cover I1. I have found in practice thatthe portion lea may be reduced to a width which is substantially equalto the thickness of l3 at that part. Highly 30 satisfactory results havebeen obtained with this practice, in that the shank portion of theoutsole is of greatly reduced width as compared to the usual width atthis portion; the same is covered 0 with upper material carrying adesign to harmonize with the upper or otherwise corresponding to thepattern of the upper; and the strength and wearing qualities of the shoeare not impaired.

The prepared sole is tacked on the bottom of 40 a last 30, with theflesh (channeled) side up. The upper 28, doubler2 I, and lining 22 sewedtogether in the usual way are now pulled over the last 30 and securedthereto temporarily by the lasting P tacks 3|. The counter 23,is alsosecured in place in the usual way. The stitches II are now run throughthe lining, the counter, the doubler, and the upper and through thechannel I 0 at the rear part. 1

When the shank portion I3a is of narrow width, 50 as shown, the channelH3 is eliminated at this part, and the stitches pass directly through Maand its cover piece I1 from one side to the other. (Fig. 3). The forwardpart of the sole is provided with the channel l0 and the upper, doubler,and 55 lining are stitched to the sole therethrough. When the portionI30; is of normal width, the channel It continues through this part too,and the stitching at this part is through the channel instead of throughthe main body of I3a.

Following the sewing operations, which may be on the Goodyear machine orby hand, the last is drawn and the shoe is turned right side out. Ashank piece 46, and stiffener 4| is fixed in place in the usual way. Thecover it is removed, the heel attached, and the cover I5 put on thebreast of the heel. It will thus be seen (Fig. 1) that the piece ll isexposed between the cover [5 and the tip l6; and also that the design l8on the part ll harmonizes with the rest of the design on the shoe upper.

The usual finishing operations are performed on the shoe.

The present invention is applicable to a cemented shoe in the same Wayas described in connection with a turn shoe above. Referring to Figs.6-8, which illustrates a cemented shoe, the sole H3 is split from theheel forwardly to the ball line to provide the flap 1 13a. A shanksection I I4 is cut away leaving the point I I6 and the heel breastcover H5. The cover H5 is temporarily held in place on the sole H3 bycement as described above in connection with the cover l5. A piece ofupper material Ill having a design H8 applied thereto is cemented to theshank section l 43a to cover the same. The upper is now lasted to theinsole in the usual Way, and the outsole is then applied and secured inplace by cement. The cover H5 is removed, the heel is attached to theshoe, and the cover H5 is then applied to the breast of the heel tocover the same and to extend over onto the piece H1. Also, the point M6is cemented down onto H1, which is left exposed between H5 and H6. Asalready explained, the design I IS on I ll harmonizes with the designcarried by the shoe upper. By virtue of the cover i H the upper materialextends completely around the shoe, thus eliminating the usual shankpart of the outsole which appears on prior art shoes.

It will be understood that the invention illustrated in Figs. 6 to 8 isnot limited to a cemented shoe, but may be similarly applied to anycemented shoe or in fact a Mackay shoe.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. A shoe having an upper and an outsole, and a cover of materialcorresponding to the pattern of said upper applied to and covering theshank portion of said outsole, the forward portion of said outsole beingexposed in the finished shoe.

2. A shoe having an upper provided with orna- Inentation, an outsolehaving a shank section, and a cover of material corresponding to saidupper and having ornamentation thereon mounted upon and covering saidshank section, whereby the ornamentation on the upper is continued overthe shank section.

3. A shoe having an upper, an outsole, a heel breast cover extendingover a part only of the shank section of said sole, and a piece of uppermaterial mounted on said outsole at and covering the shank portionthereof, the said piece extending from under said cover to substantiallythe ball line of the shoe. I

4. A shoe having an upper, an outsole, a heel breast cover extendingover a part only of a shank section of said sole, and a piece of uppermaterial mounted on and covering said outsole at the shank portionthereof and having an ornamental design thereon, the said pieceextending from under said cover to substantially the ball line of theshoe.

5. A shoe comprising in combination, a sole having a ball section, ashank section and a heel section, a channel running peripherally of saidsole, a cover attached to and covering the shank section of said sole,and overlapping onto said ball and said heel sections, the forwardportion of said outsole being exposed in the finished shoe and an uppersewed to the said sole through the said channel.

6. A shoe comprising in combination, a sole having a ball section, ashank section and a heel section, said shank section being reduced inwidth, said ball and heel sections being provided with a channel, apiece of upper material attached to and covering said shank section, anupper sewed to said channel and through said reduced section, and a heelbreast cover extending from the breast of the heel over a part only ofsaid shank section, whereby to leave said piece exposed in the finishedshoe.

'7. A shoe comprising an outsole, an upper attached thereto, a portionof said outsole being cut away between the ball line of the shoe and theheel and a piece of upper material mounted over and covering said cutaway portion and exposed in the finished shoe.

8. A shoe comprising in combination, a sole having a ball section, ashank section and a heel section, a continuous channel running aroundthe periphery of the sole through said sections, a piece of uppermaterial covering said shank section, an upper sewed to said sole bystitches passing through said channel, said stitches also passingthrough said piece, and a heel breast cover' extending from the breastof the heel over a portion only of said shank section, whereby to leavesaid piece exposed in the finished shoe.

9. A shoe comprising in combination, a sole having a ball section, ashank section and a heel section, a continuous channel running aroundthe periphery of the sole through said sections a piece of uppermaterial covering said shank section, an upper sewed to said sole bystitches passing through said channel, said stitches also passingthrough said piece, both said piece and said upper being provided withornamentations which register with each other, and a heel breast coverextending from the breast of the heel over a portion only of said shanksection, whereby to leave said piece exposed in the finished shoe.

10. A shoe comprising in combination a sole having a ball section, ashank section and a heel section, said shank section being reduced inwidth, said ball and heel sections being provided with a channel, apiece of upper material attached to and covering said shank section, anupper sewed to said channel and through said reduced section, both saidpiece and said upper being provided with ornamentations which registerwith each other, and a heel breast cover extending from the breast ofthe heel over a part only of said shank section, whereby to leave saidpiece exposed in the finished shoe.

CHARLES MILLER.

